How to Remove the Most Common Stains

At Loop, we know a lot about laundry and that also means we know a lot about stains. From spilling pasta sauce on that new white shirt to grass stains on the kiddo clothes, we’ve got you covered. 

But first, the basics…for most stains, you’ll want to follow the same routine: act fast, blot (don’t rub!), and use cold water. But some types of stains require different approaches to make sure your clothes get clean. 

The biggest and most important factor that plays into how effective you remove a stain is actually water temperature. Hot water sets most stains instead of lifting them, making this the most common reason a stain stays permanent. 

So let’s get into it. Here’s a practical guide to the most common types of stains and the best way to get them out of clothes. 

Sweat

Sweat stains are protein and oil-based, which means they respond very well to enzymes like protease to break it down. The most common mistake is washing clothes with sweat stains in hot water right away, which sets the sweat proteins into the fabric before you get a chance to work your magic. To avoid that yellow ring around the collar or underarm, here’s what to do instead: 

1. Rinse the stained area with cold water as soon as possible

2. Make a paste with baking soda and water, applying it directly to the stain

3. Let sit for 30 minutes or longer for older set-in stains

4. For stubborn yellowing, apply white vinegar to the stain after the baking soda and let sit for an additional 10 minutes before rinsing. The acidity helps break down the mineral deposits that cause discoloration over time

5. Rinse with cold water

6. Place a Loop tile in the drum and wash in cold or warm water, avoid hot water

7. Check the stain before putting anything in the dryer

Grass

Grass stains are a combination of protein, chlorophyl nad plant matter. The trickiest part is that the green pigment bonds to the fibers of your clothes quickly. The sooner you’re able to treat the stain, the easier it will be to remove it. Similar to sweat stains, avoid heat - the proteins in the stain will set in hot water before it has a chance to lift. 

1. If the stain is wet, blot gently to absorb excess moisture, don't rub

2. Apply white vinegar directly to the stain and let sit for 10 minutes

3. If the stain is already dry, dampen it first before applying the vinegar

4. Rinse with cold water from the back of the fabric to push the stain out rather than further in

5. Place a Loop tile in the drum and wash in cold water

6. Check before drying — repeat if needed

Grease & Cooking Oil

Oil and water don’t mix, which is why this stain needs a surfactant to lift it out of the fabric. This is why dish soap is the most effective pre-treatment option for this type of stain. As always, the faster you can treat the stain, the less time the stain has to spread and bond to the fabric. 

1. Blot up as much grease as possible, don't rub

2. For a fresh grease stain, sprinkle a generous amount of dry baking soda directly onto the stain immediately

3. Let sit for 15–20 minutes to absorb the oil, then brush off gently

4. Apply a small amount of dish soap to the remaining stain and work in gently

5. Let sit for 5–10 minutes

6. Rinse with warm water

7. Place a Loop tile in the drum and wash as usual

8. Check before drying, grease stains can be harder to see when wet but reappear under heat

Food Stains: Tomato, Sauces & Condiments

Acidic food stains like tomatoes, sauces and condiments oxidize over time, which means the longer they stay on the fabric, the more the pigment bonds to it. As usual, avoid hot water and instead use cold water to rinse the stain to avoid bonding it to the fabric. 

1. Remove any solid food residue gently, avoid rubbing it further into the fabric

2. Rub a small amount of dish soap on the stain

3. Rinse with cold water

4. Place a Loop tile in the drum and wash in cold or warm water

5. For stubborn stains, a short soak in cold water before washing can help lift remaining pigment before the cycle starts

Red Wine

Red wine is one of the most panicked-about stains, and also one of the most mishandled. Salt and club soda are the go-to instinct for most people — and in this case, salt actually earns its reputation. Applied immediately and generously, salt draws the liquid out of the fabric before it fully absorbs, buying you time to get to a proper treatment. What actually removes the stain is enzymes working on the tannins and pigment — and what makes it permanent is heat.⁵

1. Act immediately — blot up as much wine as possible, don't rub

2. Cover the stain generously with table salt and let it sit for 2–3 minutes to draw out the liquid

3. Brush off the salt and rinse with cold water from the back of the fabric

4. Apply white vinegar to the stain — the acidity helps prevent the pigment from bonding further while you treat it

5. Let sit for 5–10 minutes, then rinse with cold water

6. For dried red wine, soak the garment in cold water for 30 minutes before washing

7. Place a Loop tile in the drum and wash in cold water

8. Check before putting in the dryer — heat will permanently set anything remaining

Why your detergent matters as much as the pre-treatment

Pre-treating a stain is half the battle, the second part happens in the washing machine. This is where your detergent finishes what you started. This is why enzymes are a powerful ingredient in laundry detergent. Protease breaks down what’s left over from any protein-based stain and the cellulase works on the fiber-level damage that makes clothes look dull and worn. 

The good news is that Loop laundry tiles contain both, plus sodium percarbonate for oxygen-based brightening without chlorine bleach. A good way to think about it is the pre-treatment steps are about getting a head start, but the detergent tile is what closes the loop.